10/31/2018 0 Comments Day 4: Things Get HotOur day began auspiciously with a 5 am start. We shuffled around in the pitch dark to pull on our layers and eat our cereal and piled ourselves, our spotting equipment, and approximately 42 layers each into our beloved mini vans for the journey to the Lamar Valley to look for wolves. The vans, known to us as “Snooki” and “Bianca,” had very divergent journeys throughout the morning. Before the had even risen over the sleepy, snowy mountains, Bianca had taken a few wrong turns and ended up winding through the mountains on a 30 mile detour. Eyewitnesses from the van claimed that they had the best views from the entire trip (see photos). Meanwhile, down in the (actual) Lamar Valley, Snooki was encountering the unique sub-communities of park wolf watchers. They reconnected with Rick Lamplugh of the Bear Creek Council (#smallworld), who pointed out to them a famous wolf watcher, Rick McIntyre. Rick McIntyre is known for having set eyes on a wolf in the park every day since the reintroduction. He’s pretty into it. Once the vans finally managed to reunite (more difficult than you would think considering that there was no service to be had), McIntyre took us under his wing. We met up with a biologist from the Yellowstone Wolf Project, Lizzie Cato, who was tracking a pack of radio-collared wolves. Although we didn’t end up seeing wolves, we had the pleasure of chatting with Lizzie about wolf ecology, her professional trajectory, and the viral video “How Wolves Change Rivers.” She didn’t seem to hold the video in high regard and said that it was an oversimplification of the complex dynamics of wolf ecology. We also got a chance to try out the spotting scope that the EEB department so generously lent us. We saw “tiny brown dots,” to borrow a phrase of Stav ‘22, which we were told were grizzly bears lumbering down the hill. Our stint with the professional wolf watchers put us into contact with more people who have, in effect, devoted their lives to the study of wolves. The tireless work of people like Rick and Lizzie to track and observe the wolves is added into a behavioral database which other researchers can use to draw conclusions about pack structure and carnivore behavior and is foundational to many ecological discoveries. After prime wolf watching hour had passed, we explored some more of the sights (and smells--by which we mean sulfur) of Northern Yellowstone. We saw the Calcite Springs and walked down by the Yellowstone River near Tower Falls. The park was so beautiful that we lost track of time, leaving only 10 minutes to eat before meeting with Dr. Doug Smith, head of the Yellowstone Wolf Project. Despite the 30 degree weather, the visitor centre proclaimed “no food allowed” and so we dined adventurously, our cooler lids and plastic wrappers escaping in the wind as we ate experimental wrap / sandwich creations seasoned by snow. It was very cold. Sadly one of us missed lunch completely, due to being in the toilet. We were relieved to finally reach the offices and excited meet with Doug Smith, who is truly a celebrity in the field. Doug appeared in the flesh!!! A wise looking man with a regal moustache, he spoke with conviction, gesticulating emphatically, and fielded our questions with insight and attentiveness. He was an amazing communicator and clear thinker who discussed issues with nuance and sensitivity. Moreover, he was cognisant of the premises and value-judgements inherent in his views, and thus able to articulate the views of others. As with many of our community partners, Doug was at first curious about the nature of our trip and the demographic of its participants - he was surprised there was only one EEB major among us, which I suppose is a cool testament to the diversity of interests. We began the discussion with the ecological impact of wolves - trophic cascade that has caused the resurgence of park flora and fauna. Doug argued that the wolves were indeed important but not the only reason for this surge in diversity - the rises in the population of other predators like cougars and grizzlies had similar regulatory effects on the prey bison and elk, contributing to the same top-down effect. In the same vein, Doug highlighted that wolves have been scapegoated for hazards posed to livestock and the diminishing game population, upon which ranchers and outfitters respectively depend for their businesses. Other predators are also responsible. Like many other stakeholders we've spoken to, Doug notes that wolf issues are highly emotionally charged. They are both subjects of vitriol, sometimes passed down through the generations, and public infatuation. Throughout the trip, a recurring motif has been the opposing ideas of preservation and conservation. The former is leaving nature to self-regulate, possibly going through unstable oscillations in populations, while the latter advocates population control, perhaps through hunting or government culling. Doug favours at least the existence of sanctuary zones like Yellowstone National Park, which functions mostly off a preservation model, especially as such areas are diminishing. Unlike some other partners we spoke to, he seems confident that ecosystems will flourish and remain "balanced" under such laissez-faire circumstances. However, Doug also admits that a pragmatic, socially viable model would involve conservationist population control elements, easing community relations with affected ranchers who have enormous lobbying power and political presence in Montana. Interestingly, Doug self-identifies as a recreational hunter, though he only hunts elk and deer, whose population densities require regulation. Humans are one such regulating predator. However, he is emotionally incapable of hunting wolves, having long worked with and observed the animosity towards them. For Doug, the moral questions surrounding hunting constitute a different discussion, but he feels there is something primal and natural about human predatory instincts. The value framework that privileges conservation, the role of humans in nature or as custodians of nature, and the ethics of hunting activities are fascinating questions I'd like to pursue further. Our minds were satiated by this GREAT conversation but we didn't have enough of Yellowstone's fragrant sulphur pools, so we drove to the Mammoth Hot Springs and walked around the “geothermal features,” to borrow a phrase of illustrious leader Benjy ‘19. Delving deeply into each other’s psyches, we discovered that Benjy identifies most as a “bulbous and smooth” geothermal feature. Conversely, Stav was a geyser. (guy-ser? Thanks Juliana.) These hot springs were aesthetic, grand, and geologically fascinating. The variety of rock colours and shapes was amazing, as were the curious, terraced pool structures that had formed over time. Our last stop to unwind after a long day was the “Boiling River,” where we immersed ourselves in nature’s hot tub. The frigid waters of the Gardner (we didn’t misspell this, we promise) River meet the steamy 140ºF of the Boiling River and mix into a delightfully warm and only slightly sulfur-y swimming experience. We indulged in the luxurious spa waters while snow fell around us, taking in the breathtaking views of mountains enshrined in mist. There was even a serendipitous encounter with a group of bathers who were currently working in the park on wolf research. Once home, we enjoyed the culinary stylings of Kwan ‘22 and Daniel ‘22, who made Thai omelets and stir fry. Kasey ‘21 added his special oreo ball recipe to the mix. At press time, the authors of this post had eaten an embarrassing amount of those. We are excited to wake up early again tomorrow for our last day in Montana!
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